compal cl50 unable to update bios

Don't ask how to hack password. (BIOS Passwords)
Laid
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csn_0 wrote:thanks nicks.

i suppose i have to bite the bullet, get the necessary tools and dissemble the laptop. i shall report how i get along with it.

meanwhile, seasonal greetings to one and all. have a jolly good one. don't drive if you drink. cheers.
Well .. I am typing this message on a BCL50 laptop, what I guess is the same device. I got it with the symptoms quite similar to yours and was able to recover it, but .. this might help you only if you have access to a microscope and soldering iron with REALLY small tip (0.4mm is absilutely maximum)

The problem is, that whoever designed this laptop, made a bad judgement about the surface mount process parameters for power controller chip, what is the only chip on board having leadless package. It is labeled PU12 and can be found underneath the motherboard close to CPU. It had developed a cold solder joints and they were corroding over the year or so.
After re-soldering the chip (takes a watchmaker accuracy and patience of the turtle ...), everything went back to normal. Works like a charm now.

I have no experience with thesw laptops, so I am not even sure if this is a common failure. But just saw your posting and thought about sharing it.

Warning - I am designing and building electronics for living, so I consider myself pretty good with soldering iron. I am having a 0/0 vision. So please take me seriously when I am saying "DO NOT try this without a microscope!!" And good no-clean flux. This chip IS small and it is impossible to do a visual check with a naked eye whenever or not anything got shorted in a process.

Best Regards,

Andrus.
KachiWachi
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The corrosion is there because you (or someone else) didn't clean off the soldering flux, which will act like an acid over time. It also covers up cold/bad solder joints.

Flux is a good thing though, as it cleans the joint and aids in soldering. Just don't use too much! :wink:

Use a commercial de-fluxer, or plain alcohol on a cotton swab/soft brush to clean all connections after soldering. Then look at the joints under a bright light using a loop (or microscope if you are so lucky)...and touch-up as required.

Thanks.
csn_0
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laid and kachiwachi, many thanks for the info.
hmm, this may be tricky as i am not good with the soldering iron especially at this close-range. laid, i wish you are in the australasia region and i can pay you to do the job.
Laid
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csn_0 wrote:laid and kachiwachi, many thanks for the info.
hmm, this may be tricky as i am not good with the soldering iron especially at this close-range. laid, i wish you are in the australasia region and i can pay you to do the job.
Well .. unfortunately, I am not located in Australia... I guess your best shot is, if you try to locate someone who repairs mobile phones. There might be workshops around who actually _repair_ them, not only swapping boards. If they agree to touch up the chip, just deconstruct your laptop yourself (hint - it starts from removing the plastic cover above power button, on top of the keyboard. start from right side and moving to the left, just pull it off. Takes reasonable force) (hint 2 - you have to remove processor cooling assembly, otherwise you can not take it apart ..), get the board to them, show the chip, have them touch it up (as the package is leadless, you have to move soldering iron TOWARDS the chip, not away like with common chips), assemble your laptop (you have to put some good-quality thermal compound between processor and cooler, because originally it is mounted with special tape which is one-time only use), disassemble it agin to find where the excess 3 screws go, re-assemble it and cross your fingers ...

However, this is all not taken to account, that on your case the problem may be something toptally different ...

Luck!

Andrus.
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